Day Two in London Town

I began the morning with a rather large breakfast for only 4.50 GBP, which, even considering the exchange rate, isn’t a bad deal. A fellow traveler from Australia came and sat down opposite me and began some conversation. First we talked about the peculiarities of the British (of course, compared to members of the former British Empire), in which we decided that Brits were cold, inconsiderate, and rather pompous (because we all know that the rest of the world is completely different.) I do believe, however, that much of London still seems to live in its empirical glory days. Just the fact that it retains a monarch and flies both the South African Flag and the Union Jack along the parade street towards Buckingham Palace and many of its monuments pay homage to those who served in India, Africa, Australia, and North America makes this seem more real than it probably is.

The conversation sort of ended when I asked how long he had been in London. He replied with “oh, a few weeks.” At first I was intrigued, but then he elaborated that he chose to travel through Europe for a year after his last year in high school. Then he told me that he financed his trip through hitchhiking and peddling. Given that begging in London is against the law, I asked how he managed to do it – He looks out for cops. Since the police carry no guns, he just gets up and leaves when they approach. His words upon my asking what he would do if he were arrested – “be excited! Free room!” I then got up to go to the Hunterian Museum.

I walked along Queen Victoria/Ludgate/Fleet/Strand street, complete with lavish West-End Theatres and the British Court of Justice. When I arrived at the building, it was like seeing Old London, except for the fact that the entire area was bombed out during the Blitz. The Hunterian Museum is on the Second Floor of the College of Surgeons. The monitor on the “ground” floor had a Midwest-USA accent. I would have continued the conversation further if I had been allowed to utter more than “museum” before being shuffled off. The Hunterian doesn’t allow cameras, which is a shame considering the morbid subject matter housed within. I enjoyed the preserved hearts, mastectomized breasts, and dissected circulatory systems and really hoped that you would, too.

Nonetheless, it was a quick exhibit. I then made my way to Trafalgar Square and the National Gallery, where I feasted my eyes upon works of van Gough, van Eyck, and van der Weyden. Artists such has Monet, Manet, Calliebotte, Degas, and many “unknowns.” The gallery didn’t allow photos, so google images will have to suffice for you.

When done filing through groups of Frenchmen awed by the work of their nationals and old people saying “this was smaller last time I was here” in reference to a painting, I hopped on the tube towards Canary Wharf, the former docklands of the East and West India Companies (of Tea Party fame.) The “wasteland” is now home to London’s most “modern” district, in fact it reminds me much of downtown Dallas. Tall buildings stand on every side, all of which are connected by an underground pedestrian walkway of shops and restaurants. It really was an out-of-location experience. When I found myself bored of glassy skyscrapers and the smell of stagnant water, I hopped back on the underground and found myself in Whitechapel.

As I left the station, I was assailed by the sounds of squealing music and the smell of curry. So THIS is where I’m supposed to go for my curry. The streets reminded me of New York’s Chinatown, only it was now London’s Indiatown. The sidewalks were lined with tent vendors selling 5 GBP pants and Bollywood DVDs. The stores were anything from western union money transfers (to the Indian subcontinent for only 2 GBP) and very ethnically-indigenous attire (and, of course, a Burger King.) This used to be the east of the east end, the slums of the slums, home of Jack the Ripper and medieval witch burnings. The street (whatever it was called at whatever point in time) led into The City’s high-rise developments, including the soon-to-be-former tallest building in London, the up-and-coming tallest building in London and the peculiarly pickle-shaped building, the Gherkin. It was fascinating.

Shortly thereafter, I got lost (no surprise.) After some meandering, I found myself at Leadenhall Market, which, as it sounds, used to be a big shopping district (which was really a farmer and butcher’s market.) It seemed cool and such, until I saw a Subway, at which point I walked around a bit more until I was magically back at St. Paul’s Cathedral. I realized that my jetlag was not quite cured, so I went and fell asleep. Snooze.